EVSE Installation Specialist

 First, forgive me for being slightly pedantic - Technically, the "charger" is what's built into your vehicle.  What connects to your vehicle is an EVSE - or, EV Supply Equipment.  

The job of an EVSE is to safely provide power to the vehicle's on-board charger.  

I'll continue to call it a charger, since that's what every one else calls it and I like to keep things simple. 

- Most homes in our area have a main electrical panel with a 200 Amp service.  Rarely does the service need to be upgraded - out of the 100+ installs I have completed in the past 2 years, only one service needed to be upgraded.

- On a budget?  If your current electrical service won't support a 50-Amp charger, consider a 20-amp charger.  That's what I have for my Model 3 and I'm usually fully charged overnight.  

-If I may suggest,  let me install a larger gauge wire if going this route - this will allow you to change out the circuit breaker and receptacle at a future date, if you choose to upgrade your electric service at a later date.

Code requires all EVSE's to use no more than 80% of the circuit's rating (which is determined by the breaker size).  The wire must match or exceed the ampacity of the breaker.  So, on a 50 amp breaker, the wire size is required to be either #8 if using conduit or armored cable, or #6 if using NM-B "Romex" cable. The odd thing about the American Wire Gauge - the smaller the number, the larger the wire.  (Feel free to skip ahead - but when the AWG system was created, they had a "0" (Zero) gauge cable.  At the time, this was thought to be the biggest cable ever to be made or will have been made.  How short sighted.  But, no fear, they've just kept on adding zeros for larger cables.  They call them "aughts".  Most homes will have four-aught, or 4/0, service cable on a 200 amp service.)

There are pros and cons to both.

A plug in charger offers more convenience - you can take the charger with you if you're travelling, for instance.  Or if your charger develops a problem and you need to send it out for repair or if you'd like to replace it, it simply unplugs.  

The down side is current code requires GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protection for EVSE Receptacles.  This can add $200 or more to the installation.

Draw

- Hardwired wins for installation cost

- Plug in wins for convenience and serviceability

A plug in charger likely won't charge as fast as a hardwired charger.  The difference is small and honestly, most people are unlikely to notice.  I, for example, come home, plug in, and I'm topped off the following morning.  I'm only charging at 16 amps on a 20 amp circuit.

Winner - Hardwired (though the benefit is small)

Aesthetics - I'm a function vs form kind of guy, but I can't deny that, for example, the Tesla Wall Connector presents Elegant Simplicity.  A hardwired Tesla Wall Connector just simply looks better than a plug-in ChargePoint Flex.

Winner - Hardwired

Hands down the Tesla Wall Connector

It's fast, sleek, simple, and cheap.  It can charge non-tesla's with an adapter (and still be cheaper BY FAR) than a comparable charger.

If you have a non-Tesla and don't want to have an adapter - Tesla also makes a J1772 Wall Connector.  It's higher priced than the NACS (North American Charging Standard, aka the "Tesla Connector"), but still far cheaper than the other chargers.  It is well designed for many installation options - I'm able to connect the supply cable from the back left, back right, from the top, or from the bottom.  Most chargers have one or two points of entry.  Plus, if your TWC ever needs service or replacement, it can't get simpler - it comes in two pieces - the back plate and the body.  The conduit or supply cable connect to and wire up to the back plate.  The body then mounts to the backplate and is secured with four screws.  

-ChargePoint Flex has proven to be very popular and can be either plugged in or hard wired.  The downside, is if the ChargePoint Flex needs to be serviced, it has to be unwired to be removed.  Whereas the TWC just has four mounting screws and then pulls forward to remove - no unwiring required.  

-Grizzl-E and JuiceBox - I have installed them.  I will install them.  I just don't recommend them.  Installation options are nil.  It's a "Take it or leave it" kind of scenario.  I like having flexibility with installation options, since every installation presents unique challenges.  Being forced into using certain entry points can limit the installation method and might result in less than aesthetic finished product.

So, you've chosen to go with a receptacle instead of hardwiring.  Which receptacle should I install?

There are two common charging receptacles -

The Nema 14-50 and the Nema 6-50. 

The 6-50 will be cheaper, since it requires only 3 wires - two hots and a ground.  The Nema 14-50 requires two hots, a neutral, and a ground.  That neutral wire isn't used by any charger that I'm aware of.  Power is delivered between the two hots.  How the 14-50 became the defacto standard for EVSE (hyperlink) Receptacles, I'll never know.  While the 14-50 is far more common to see, the 6-50 holds its own in popularity.  For example, the ChargePoint Flex and Clipper Creek offer both versions.  If you check out EVSE on Amazon, you will have no problem finding 6-50 chargers.  And, as an added bonus - the 6-50 is cheaper to buy in addition to being cheaper to install.

I have yet to install a standard grade receptacle that has failed.  The industrial grade receptacle is no doubt beefier - I believe it compensates for installation error.  Terminals that are over or under torqued can create hot spots and eventually cause the receptacle to fail.  Torque requirements are stamped on the yoke or body of every receptacle.  A torquing screwdriver is in my tool bag and (not being facetious or cute) I know how to use it.  Some electricians torque, loosen, and torque to allow the copper to deform, relax, and snug into the terminal.  Unfortunately, this is not the intended technique.  Torque specs (required by code) are arrived at by manufacturers with the intention of taking the terminal to the torque spec and leaving it.  The torque spec accounts for relaxation of the copper.  Some electricians torque the stuffing out of the terminal, thinking "tight is right".  No.  Tight is literally choking the copper.